Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and visitors alike swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, UNESCO designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a prestigious roster of global cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it joins a global network of more than four hundred cities across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "stands as proof of its centuries-old culinary traditions and vibrant culinary scene," as stated by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this historic city is no surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, bustling, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is finally in the spotlight for what has consistently characterized its essence: an immense passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing conversation from waking up until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, refined, and raised to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, fusing Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights fresh harvests but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on countless corners, there are little shops and kiosks – lesser-known treasures that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a simple joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and involved. The artisan whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though say that their children do not want to learn the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will motivate more people worldwide to discover these narratives and travel to the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
